This project begins with 2 sheet of 3/4" plywood which I break down into smaller more manageable sizes with my circular saw and a straight edge clamp.
I then head over to the table saw to rip all my parts to their final widths.
I use the table saw to cut partially into the top pieces to help me mark out the interlocking triangle pieces.
With these cuts made I can find my center point. The outside measurement of the triangles is 12 inches so after I find my center point I make a mark 6 inches on either side. With these marks I can place my speed square to find a 60 degree angle and place my straight edge along the speed square, remove the speed square and mark my line. I do this to the other side to fully mark out the triangle.
I then switch to my jig saw to rough cut the top piece in half, making sure to stay clear of the line.
With the table saw fence still set I can smooth out the rough jig saw cuts.
I then use my circular saw and straight edge clamp to cut the top piece to final length as this dimension is too much for my table saw to handle.
I then set my miter saw to 30 degrees to clean up my rough jig saw cuts.
This leaves a very small amount on the inside corner which I first use a ruler and knife to score the plywood to prevent tearout and then cut the remainder with the jig saw.
At the table saw I cut as far as I can into the other top piece without cutting off the triangle that sticks out.
I layout the inside triangle piece on top of some 3/4" spacers to allow me to trace out the shape of the triangle to the other top piece. This will guarantee both pieces match when closing the sliding table.
Back at the table saw with the lines now marked I can get as close as possible to the triangle leaving a cleaner cut then the jig saw.
I can't cut the outside triangle piece on the miter saw like the other top piece so I use the circular saw and straight edge to finish the majority of the cut.
Again I score the corner with my knife and finish the cut with the jig saw.
Over at the miter saw I can cut to length all the pieces that were previously ripped to width to length on the table saw.
The last cut to be made is the bottom of the inside box which was cut to width earlier.
I begin building the inside box which is held together using glued butt joints. The 1-1/2" brad nails hold everything in place so I can drill holes, counter sink and drive 2" screws for more strength.
Now I can attach the bottom of the inside box again with glue, nails, and screws.
I then use a chisel to scrape off the glue squeeze out.
I then build the 2 top half boxes which are built also with glued butt joints. They receive five 1-1/2" brad nails to keep the edges aligned while I drill and counter sink 3 holes for three 2" screws in each corner.
The tops are attached in the same way with glue, nails and screws.
I then use a chisel to scrape off the glue squeeze out.
I use the random orbit sander to remove any tareout and flush up the edges.
All the outside corners then received a 1/4" round over. I was careful when driving the screws and nails in earlier so that the router bit would never contact them.
Any areas that were less than perfect get smoothed out with some 120 grit sand paper.
For installing the drawer slides I take the top piece and flip it upside down. I then use a spacer block to hold up the inside track of the slide which I removed from the body of the drawer slide. With the slide in place I can use five 1/2" button head screws to hold each slide in place.
I then gave all 3 pieces a coat of drywall compound to fill in any holes.
I placed the slide on the installed part to measure what kind of spacer I would need for the inside box.
To install the slides on the inside box I first mark the center point and lay down my 3/4" spacers. I align the slide edge to my center point and drive in five 1/2" button head screws to hold each slide in place.
With all the drawer slide pieces attached I can carefully align everything to slide the tops on and test the fit.
I then removed all the drawer slides from all 3 pieces and started prepping for paint. This started with sanding off my first coat of drywall compound.
I applied 3 coats of drywall compound in total to every hole and everywhere the plywood edges met.
Since the inside box is under less abuse than the outside I went with a roll on paint and primer, applying 2 coats total. And yes that colour is called bubble gum.
For the legs I had a couple of old banisters laying around that I decided to chop up into the 4 legs. I used a stop block to keep them all the same length.
On to painting the outside boxes. I started with 1 coat of black primer spray paint followed up with 5 coats of black gloss spray paint. I let it all fully cure between coats.
Using my straight edge I started to mask off the triforce logo. I was told by my paint store that I should use masking tape, not painters tape as it might bleed through, to tape off the areas and to peel it off as soon as my last coat is on. This means I had the tape on for only about 30 minutes while I applied 3 coats of the gold paint. This resulted in no issues while taking the tape off and a nice clean line.
I finished the project with 2 coats of clear gloss spray paint.
It was now time for final assembly. I first laid a scrap piece of 3/4" plywood under one side to create a reference to the bottom of the inside box as I was doing this on carpet. I then laid down my 3/4" spacer so that I could install the drawers slides.
I then placed the inside box on top of the 4 legs. I take one leg out and trace it on the inside to show me where I can drive screws safely through the plywood into the leg. I used a scrap piece of 3/4" stock to offset the leg under the box exactly where it needs to go.
I then drilled 2 holes and drove in two 2" screws to each leg.
I then attached the inner part of the drawer slides with reference to my holes as well as a line I had created to show me where the screws were adjusted to make the top fit perfectly.
The last step was to simply slide the 2 halfs onto the base and with that the table is complete.